Happy Christmas!

Howdy ya'll!

The trimester is over! I've finished grading and calculating averages and arguing with students over undeserved points, and now I'm sort of on vacation.

My plans have changed. Elephants and Ghana will have to wait. Mali, here I come! I'll be hiking the whole time, which is odd considering how much I love the sedentary lifestyle (i.e. sitting on a beach in Ghana). But I'm very excited to see Dogon Country for I've been told it's a must-see. I'm including a description of what my trip will be like, courtesy of PC Burkina's almost-former director. See below yo!

I will be spending Christmas in Bouroum-Bouroum with Herman. Pancakes and chicken may be in my future! And tomorrow I'm going to a baptism. The women and men celebrate the baptism separately, so I'll be hanging out with the women and eating spaghetti. It's customary to bring soap to a baptism to give to the mother, but I think I might also go hunting for some baby clothes in the marché here in Gaoua.

Herman says hello. He killed a mouse outside the other day and then brought it inside my house to eat it. A bit backwards, no? The smell was horrible, but Herman didn't seem to mind.

Merry Christmas!


DOGON COUNTRY? MALI

Introduction. Mali’s Dogon Country is rightfully considered one of the most interesting places on this great earth, offering world class trekking where culture and nature intersect in a powerful way. The heart of Dogon Country is the Bandiagara Escarpment, a 150 kilometer (100 mile) long sandstone cliff with numerous villages along its top and bottom, and ancient Tellem houses perched on tiny ledges along its up-to-150 meters (500 feet) high face. The area offers the possibility of treks from a single day to several weeks, although 3-5 day trips are perhaps the most common.

Encounters with the Dogon people make a trek along the escarpment unique and memorable. People working their fields, women pounding millet, children playing in villages, old men gathered in the low-roofed meeting places, women barefoot or in flip flops with large pots on their heads negotiating ladders and narrow ledges, lively and colorful markets, etc. -- these are everyday sights along the Dogon trails.

Given Dogon’s reputation, it is no surprise that much has been written for the tourist and visitor. There is, however, surprisingly little detailed information for the serious hiker for whom the region offers magnificent trails and scenery -- whether on the top or on the bottom of the impressive escarpment, and, even more so, when going up and down between the two. The ascent trails often include ladders carved from logs, airy ledges, rock clefts, spectacular rock formations, and even caves!

It should be noted that “peak bagging” is not part of the Dogon experience -- this is not a mountain range and there are no summits of particular interest. The highest peaks in Mali are near Hombori, further to the east.

This guide is written for people who want to know more about trails, geography, distances between villages, and interesting hikes and destinations. It is not my intention to write about Dogon culture as there are many other sources available. As a hiker in Dogon Country, it is important to be flexible, allowing time to take in cultural events and sites along the trails; hikers who focus exclusively on accumulating kilometers, or sticking to a fixed itinerary, will miss out on much of what Dogon Country has to offer.

Geography. The Bandiagara Escarpment is in central Mali, just north of Burkina Faso. The escarpment faces southeast and, starting west of Bankass, runs northeast 150 km to Douentza. The terrain below the escarpment is a sandy plain with significant sand dunes in many areas. The top is mostly bedrock, a barren moonscape in places, cut by gorges that extend from cliff fissures far back into the plateau. In these gorges, there are rushing streams in the rainy season, as well as active gardens in the drier months.

Climate and Weather. Mali is hot, and hikers need to plan ahead and adapt accordingly. December to January is the coolest time, but tourists are abundant and the Harmattan dust blowing down from the Sahara can be a problem at times (peaking in the somewhat hotter month of February). March to mid-June is extremely hot, and this period is perhaps best avoided altogether, although the lack of tourists creates a temptation.

The rainy season is from late May through mid-September. It is mostly hot and dry with occasional downpours; there are also occasional periods of fog and mist. The rains diminish the heat, but be prepared for the possibility of muddy trails, slippery rock ledges, flooded roads, and many summer time tourists. Stream and river crossings may be challenging with options including wading, piggybacking on your guide’s back, or perhaps catching a lift on a passing donkey.

End of August into September has fewer tourists and is spectacularly green -- with crops in full bloom -- making this a favorite time for the author. October-November (harvest time) is hotter and drier, but not as hot as March to mid-June.

6 AM -10 AM and 3 or 4 PM to dark (which varies from 6:00 PM at the winter solstice in December to 7 PM at the summer solstice in June) are the best times to be out on the trails. Plan to spend mid-day (approx. 11 AM to 3 PM) holed up in a campement having lunch and waiting for the weather to cool down. Bring a book and/or journal and take a nap on a mattress (which will be supplied upon request) if the heat does not keep you awake.

It is recommended that you break camp at the very first sign of morning light to maximize hiking time in the cool weather. Tell your guide that hot water will do for breakfast tea or coffee and carry your own bread/jam or snacks so you don’t have to wait for a cooked breakfast. If you start hiking at 7:30 AM, you have already missed out on one of the best hours of the day!

Hiking right up to dark is recommended for those who want to cover terrain; the two hours before dark offer glorious light and reasonable temperatures. Don’t miss being out during these magic hours! Those two hours each day offer the true glory of hiking in Dogon Country, typically supplanting the best memories from the other twenty-two.

Also, if possible, plan your hike to correspond with the full moon.

Waterfalls. During rainy season, there are many attractive cascades, such as those in Ende and Tigou. Teli, Ourou, and Banani host spectacular waterfalls, each descending the full height to the escarpment.

Rock Climbing, Bouldering, Canyons, Hang gliding. The rock climbing potential is enormous, but little has been done. Records of climbs are sketchy at best. The Ende pinnacle is one feature that has reportedly been climbed. Climbers on hiking trips are encouraged to bring their climbing shoes for bouldering near the campements and at rest stops along the trail. The quality of the rock is generally excellent. Slot canyons will also occasionally be encountered, and they offer some adventurous, if short, side trips. Hang gliding is another possible activity, but you will need to bring all your own equipment.

Villages and Markets. There are numerous villages on both the top and bottom of the escarpment. The cliff bottom villages are generally more scenic (with the cliff face in the background!) and well known from a tourist point of view, but some on top, such as Begnimatou, are equally spectacular. Some of the villages are quite spread out, as much as a kilometer in length (for example, Ende), and many comprise multiple sub-villages.

Village names can be confusing, due to both multiple spellings of the same name (as described previously) and also because one village name may have multiple variations for various nearby sub-villages (for example, Idjeli-na and Idjeli-do). For the most part, one name only for each village is used in this guide. Usually, cliff top villages have different names than those below but there are some exceptions such as Idjeli, Kundou, and Yougo. The suffix –na identifies the cliff bottom village.



Most villages have markets every five or seven days1 and visiting them can be a memorable experience. They typically start in the afternoon and continue into the night. A central activity, especially in the evening/night, is drinking the local millet-based alcohol beverage, brewed and sold by women who actively offer samples in calabashes to convince you that theirs is the best quality to buy. Ask your guide to help plan you itinerary so you can stay at least one night in a village on market day.

Campements. Most villages have at least one campement. Some are fairly primitive while others are slightly more “upscale” -- meaning that they are cleaner, have an overhead tank in the shower stall (as opposed to just a bucket), and might have a porcelain toilet over a cement latrine hole and flowering plants growing in the courtyard. Except in Sanga, no campements have electricity, running water, fans or air conditioning. Be sure to bring your own supply of toilet paper, soap, and shampoo!

All campements have foam mattresses, but it is recommended that you bring your own mosquito net and cord to tie it up with (the square type with four tie-in points is recommended over the “tepee-style” with a single tie point).

Most of the year, you will want to sleep on the roof, accessed by stairs or a Dogon-style ladder, as the rooms are uncomfortably hot, even at night. Be prepared during the rainy season for the possibility of late night storms which result in rapid descent to a room! Rooftop poles or posts are usually available to tie up your mosquito net. Most campements have blankets (although they are not usually needed), but is recommended that you bring your own sheet. During the cold months of December and January, you will want to bring a sleeping bag or at least an extra blanket.

You can wash your clothes in a bucket (or someone at the campement will do them for you for perhaps 500 cfa). Except perhaps in the rainy season, they will dry very quickly (even at night if there is the slightest breeze).

Meals. Campements make meals at the instruction of the guide. Offerings are typically limited: couscous or pasta with sauce and a few vegetables and some chicken or goat meat is common. Your guide may bring some canned vegetables to liven up the meals. Some fresh produce, such as tomatoes, may be available from local gardens during the dry season or, to a limited extent, in the rainy season. Fresh fruit is uncommon at most times of the year.

Breakfast is hot water with tea or instant coffee and bread or local donuts. Your guide may bring jam or peanut butter.

Campements will provide water from a nearby village pump or well. Treatment of some kind is recommended. If you choose not to treat the water, it is recommended that you get it directly from a pump to avoid possible contamination from campement water containers.

Most campements have gas-powered refrigerators with cold (or at least semi-cold) bottled water, soft drinks, and beer. Meals, lodging, and the village tourist tax, are typically included in your “package deal” guide fee, but you will need to pay for drinks (other than pump water), so plan accordingly.

Most campements have Dogon souvenirs for sale, especially wood carvings.

Hazards. Heat is the greatest hazard. It saps your energy in ways you might not realize at first. Be sure to maximize hydration before you even start and drink lots of water throughout the day. Carrying a minimum of two liters per person is recommended. Blisters can also result from the intense heat; carry band-aids and moleskin.

Intense sun is another major concern. Sun hats and liberal use of sunscreen are essential. Get early starts and take occasional breaks under shade trees. As discussed previously, rains can create slippery ledges and challenging stream cautions

Malaria prophylaxis is recommended year round, especially during the rainy season. Long pants and sleeves and/or insect repellent are recommended during evening meals. Flies can be a nuisance at times during the rainy season, especially when food is present.

As is the case in much of Africa, bilharzia (schistosomiasis), an illness that originates in snails, is present in water, especially standing water, and swimming is thus not recommended.

Poisonous snakes are present but rarely seen. Keep your eyes on the ground where you are stepping, though. The Dogon say that seeing a snake when you are out hiking brings good luck! Lizards will be regularly encountered, but I have never seen a scorpion (although they are reportedly out there).

There are several nasty plants that the locals refer to collectively as the “Dogon police.” One mimosa shrub/tree has hooked thorns that stick to you like Velcro on steroids, but it is rarely a problem if you stick to the trails. In sandy soils, especially along the bottom, be on the lookout during the rainy season for a foxtail-like grass with both light green and dark purple clusters of innocent looking, but very nasty, little spiny seeds that stick to any passing clothing and are difficult to remove.

Another plant hazard during the rainy season are weeds that grow profusely along the trails up and down the cliffs. Use care to avoid “sandwiching” plant material between your boots and the rocks which can make your step surprisingly slippery.

Speaking of rocks, the sandstone generally has a high friction value, but be aware that some of the lighter colored rock can be polished and more slippery. Of course, when wet, any rock can be slippery so care is advised.

Encounters with the Dogon and Fulani People

Encounters with local inhabitants will occur, and some people, especially children, are quite curious. Dogon is the dominant ethnic group, while some Fulani cattle herders may also be encountered. In general, I have found the villagers to be respectful, friendly and helpful (although you cannot count on them to speak French). Be especially differential to elders. Your guide will suggest proper etiquette.

Speaking Dogon. As in all places, people appreciate efforts to learn the local language. Greet people you meet along the trail with “Po” and “Say-o.” The usual greeting sequence is a fairly long back and forth goes as one person inquires about the other and then the sequence reverses. It goes something like this:

Person 1 Person 2

Po (hello) Sayo (like ca va in French, this works as both a question and a response)

Oumana sayo? (How’s the family?) Sayo

Gay sayo? (How is your heath?) Sayo (sometimes shortened to Say as sequence goes on)

Ho sayo (How are you yourself?) Sayo. Oumana sayo?

Sayo Gay sayo?

Sayo Ho sayo?

Ya po Ya po

Here are a few other useful phrases:

Emma yay Good bye

Digga digga Slowly

Amma u obara God bless you

Edjiko Good

Go Go

Vay Come

Ganna Thank you

Eeen oua I want

Garra yemma Let’s go

Your guide can teach you more greetings and phrases.

Visiting Tellem Houses. Ancient Tellem houses are ubiquitous but most are high on cliff faces and thus inaccessible. Accessible ones can be visited in Teli, Ende, Kani-Kombole, and Nombori. For central and northern areas, including the fine Tellem houses in Ireli and Yougopri, access is forbidden.

It came upon a midnight clear (pictures from the AIDS sensibilization)

I have to admit that I'm having a hard time keeping up with blog entries. With several weeks in between entries I'm bound to forget huge chunks of what I've done. And of course there's also the fact that when I get to use the internet all I want to do is surf aimlessly. But now I am here and write I will!

Most recently I attended a sensibilization on female genital mutilation, or excision, at the CEG where I teach. Practically the entire school attended. I've never been so horrified and disgusted in all my life. We watched a video where we witnessed several girls being excised. Their screams were haunting (dull razors or blades were used and no anesthetic) and I had nightmares that night. I think I have a strong stomach, but I had to work incredibly hard to keep my food down while watching this video. But at least most of the students paid attention and took it seriously; many jumped at the opportunity to answer questions asked of them and, in turn, asked their own questions.

On Thanksgiving, Jillian and I collaborated with my counterpart and the director of my school to put on a sensibilization about HIV/AIDS. I find the pictures (above) quite amusing. Jillian and I were in charge of doing condom demonstrations for the whole school; it was a lot of fun, especially when we called students to the front to demonstrate what they learned.

There was nothing Thanksgiving-ish about the actual Thanksgiving day, but last weekend I celebrated the holiday with other Americans in Bobo-Dioulasso. I ate turkey, green bean casserole, macaroni (almost exactly like Grandma's!), potatoes, apple pie and carrot cake. Holy Amazingness it was delcious! And I got to visit with friends I hadn't seen since August, so it was all quite lovely.

I have tentative plans for Chrismas and New Year's. Tentative because I somehow have to go to Ouaga very soon to get my visa, but I'm stuck in Bouroum-Bouroum at least until the 22nd grading exams and calculating averages. I think I'll be able to work it out, but here are the plans: Christmas in Po searching for elephants or animals besides donkeys and goats. New Year's in Ghana on a beach with an ice cold coke between my peeling hands (my hands haven't gotten better, but I called the PCMO and he's sure it's just dry skin; hydrating lotion is en route from ouaga as we I write!). Then I have to be back in Ouaga on January 5th for Inter-Service Training. Whew! That's a loaded two weeks, but it sounds like oodles of fun.

Speaking of fun, I bought the first Harry Potter book in French and have started reading it. It's taking me forever, but I figure it's a good way to expand my French vocabulary. And it's Harry Potter; what's not to like?

Okay I'm tired of writing for now. Until next time. And if that next time happens to be after the 25th, a very jolly Merry Christmas to everyone!