Sebastian had it wrong. It is most certainly hotter above water, at least in Burkina Faso. The Afrcian sun has been quite cruel these past two weeks. We has a glorious downpour two Saturdays ago, and since then all we’ve had is scalding heat. Even the Burkinabè are complaining. I’ve been informed that it’s hotter now than it was at the end of March (the peak of the hot season) last year. This early hot season means that either the rain will come earlier this year (yay!) or that there will be a nasty drought (boo!). The pessimist in le is preparing for the worst.
I’ve been in a bit of a pickle lately because of this saison chaud. I can’t sleep in my bed anymore because I sweat like I’m running a marathon in 100 degree weather, and I can’t sleep outside because 1) I don’t have a door to my courtyard and ) I live alone and someone could easily jump over my wall even if I did have a door. But I’ve found a solution! Now I leave my front door open but I close and lick my screen door, and I sleep directly in front of my screen on my Lipico. Every once in a while I catch a breeze and it is glorious!
I admit that I’m jealous of Herman because he can sleep outside. Oh to be a cat, one that’s loved. But Herman doesn’t sleep alone! He met his main squeeze, but I can’t actually confirm the gender of said squeeze because he/she won’t let me touch him/her. I’m calling this new kitten Harriet because I like the ring to “Herman and Harriet.” Harriet resembles Herman in color, except that he/she is also gray, and is severely underfed. But I’m currently rectifying the latter.
In other news, Herman got his rabies vaccination last week. That was a pleasant experience. I have a scratch on my left arm that resembles a sine curve.
So I’ve been in Bouroum-Bouroum for 6 months and Burkina Faso for almost 9. I feel comfortable here, but only as comfortable as I could possibly be in a place that is glaringly different from what I’ve known all my life. There’s no denying that I dearly miss so many comforts that I can never have here. Sometimes that truth is just so depressing. Some days are better than others. But I want to be here and I think that counts for a lot.
So I’m celebrating being in Burkina Faso. Warm coke, anyone? Bien sûr!
P.S. There are these goats that use an elevated log to climb atop my chicken coop. They proceed to dance around a bit and scream, head-butt each other--you know, goat activities. But then they inevitably start to freak out because they can’t figure out how to get back down to the ground ( bum bum bum…). It’s entertaining but also pathetic. Herman merely regards them with an expression that I can only describe as bored, and perhaps with a bit of hauteur. I adore him.
Friday, February 26, 2010
Saturday, February 6, 2010
A family of trees
Is there anything ambiguous or confusing about the word ‘No’ ? At first, I didn’t think so. And saying ‘No’ forcefully—without a smile or teasing undertone—seems even more explicit. But apparently we females don’t really know what we want because ‘No (smile)’ means ‘Yes’ and ‘No (murderous-looking-for-the-nearest-machete-glare) means, wait for it, ‘Yes.’ Hmm, that doesn’t leave a girl with too many options, does it?
Well there’s a certain nameless dufus in Gaoua who believes this steaming piece of ‘yes means no’ crap is true of me. He’s been pursuing/making me insane for months now; he’s harmless, albeit annoying, and I’m certainly not the most patient person. But this morning, after refusing to give him my number for about 50th time and explaining (yet again) that I’m blissfully engaged to another volunteer (shhh…not really) who lives close by, dufus sat himself down to explain his feelings to me. Here is goes:
I am the trophy for the World Cup. Right now I’m picturing the gold thing that Zidane walked past with his head hung low after he got himself thrown out of the championship game against Italy in 2006. Anywho, I’m the trophy and dufus is one of the teams that qualified to play in the World Cup, and he’s playing to win the trophy. Oh barf. My ‘boyfriend’ is another team and so on and so on. According to him, the World Cup isn’t won until I’m married. Christ.
That machete’s looking mighty appealing right now. But I may just have fatten the lie instead of getting messy, which means that Mom, I might need you to send me a ring to wear—the one found at the bottom of a Cracker Jack box will suffice. I couldn’t help but laugh at this comparison, seeing as how I enjoy all things ridiculous, but poor dufus was serious. I might consider giving him my number if could find me an oreo blast and green chile cheeseburger from Sonic, but then again I probably wouldn’t. I would enjoy the food, though.
In other news, I’ve started an English Club at my school. Most of these kids want to do activities that will help them prepare for the BEPC (middle school exit exam), so I’m trying to come up with some cool songs and games to teach them. I plan on wowing them with my singing voice. Next week it’s going to be ‘Head, Shoulders, Knees and Toes’ with a twist. The twist being that I have to figure out a way to work in the other body parts. I might just have to change the tune.
Also, I’m making invitations to send out to Ouaga, Bobo and Gaoua for 8 Mars. 8 Mars is International Women’s Day and it appears that Bouroum Bouroum will be rockin’ it like it’s 1999. Soccer games and theater pieces are scheduled for the day, as well as a dance at the end of the night. Burkina Faso designs a new pagne every year in celebration of 8 Mars. I can’t remember the pattern for this year (in either red or blue though!), but it’s pretty and I intend to make a dress and/or shirt out of the material. Guess which one I’ll wear more often? But I will get all gussied up for 8 Mars. I’m very excited that Burkina is celebrating its women, and that I’ll be a part of it.
Exams this week! I hope that this weekend my students are dreaming about fractions, triangles/angles, decimal approximations and calculations using powers of 10. What what!
Well there’s a certain nameless dufus in Gaoua who believes this steaming piece of ‘yes means no’ crap is true of me. He’s been pursuing/making me insane for months now; he’s harmless, albeit annoying, and I’m certainly not the most patient person. But this morning, after refusing to give him my number for about 50th time and explaining (yet again) that I’m blissfully engaged to another volunteer (shhh…not really) who lives close by, dufus sat himself down to explain his feelings to me. Here is goes:
I am the trophy for the World Cup. Right now I’m picturing the gold thing that Zidane walked past with his head hung low after he got himself thrown out of the championship game against Italy in 2006. Anywho, I’m the trophy and dufus is one of the teams that qualified to play in the World Cup, and he’s playing to win the trophy. Oh barf. My ‘boyfriend’ is another team and so on and so on. According to him, the World Cup isn’t won until I’m married. Christ.
That machete’s looking mighty appealing right now. But I may just have fatten the lie instead of getting messy, which means that Mom, I might need you to send me a ring to wear—the one found at the bottom of a Cracker Jack box will suffice. I couldn’t help but laugh at this comparison, seeing as how I enjoy all things ridiculous, but poor dufus was serious. I might consider giving him my number if could find me an oreo blast and green chile cheeseburger from Sonic, but then again I probably wouldn’t. I would enjoy the food, though.
In other news, I’ve started an English Club at my school. Most of these kids want to do activities that will help them prepare for the BEPC (middle school exit exam), so I’m trying to come up with some cool songs and games to teach them. I plan on wowing them with my singing voice. Next week it’s going to be ‘Head, Shoulders, Knees and Toes’ with a twist. The twist being that I have to figure out a way to work in the other body parts. I might just have to change the tune.
Also, I’m making invitations to send out to Ouaga, Bobo and Gaoua for 8 Mars. 8 Mars is International Women’s Day and it appears that Bouroum Bouroum will be rockin’ it like it’s 1999. Soccer games and theater pieces are scheduled for the day, as well as a dance at the end of the night. Burkina Faso designs a new pagne every year in celebration of 8 Mars. I can’t remember the pattern for this year (in either red or blue though!), but it’s pretty and I intend to make a dress and/or shirt out of the material. Guess which one I’ll wear more often? But I will get all gussied up for 8 Mars. I’m very excited that Burkina is celebrating its women, and that I’ll be a part of it.
Exams this week! I hope that this weekend my students are dreaming about fractions, triangles/angles, decimal approximations and calculations using powers of 10. What what!
Thursday, January 7, 2010
The streets are dark (Happy Birthday, Nathan!)
Sick with a cold. Swollen ankle. But am content.
Content because as I'm writing this, I'm sitting on a cushy couch with a fan blowing in my face and a bowl of chocolate ice cream in my lap.
The Dogon Country in Mali was very beautiful, parts of it very much like New Mexico. Plateaus, villages located in the cliffs, and sand dunes like rolling hills. We slept on the roofs in remote villages under the moon (which was full on New Year's Eve) and stars. It was like we had a nightlight. And it was freezing! We hiked from 8-12 everyday, and then from 3-5 in the afternoon carrying our packs with us. We handed out kola nuts to the natives when we wanted to take pictures of their villages (and when one of us almost hit an elderly man with a soccer ball—he was not happy!). I tasted a kola nut—it was like eating a bitter piece of hard cardboard, quite tasty.
Children followed us around, asking us for pens and water bottles and for my earrings and watch. They seemed to think that if they kept asking I'll eventually hand over the goods. The people in this area are used to tourists, and are accustomed to receiving gifts from them. We as volunteers immediately noticed the differences between our villages in Burkina and the villages frequented by the European and the rare American traveler; in Dogon you can find trash cans and strategicially-placed souvenir shops. Though I do suppose Dogon is one of the most authentic African village experience for the tourist because you do get to see people going about their daily activities—women pounding millet and carrying things on their heads on their way to the marche, and men relaxing in the shade or praying at the mosque. But for me there was a touristy feel to the whole thing, which was in itself interesting to experience. Having been in Africa for 7 months, I guess the novelty of being in a small village has worn off; and after observing these European tourists, I was reminded of what it first felt like to arrive in country.
Early in the trip I jumped off a rock and twisted my ankle. It swelled but didn't hurt too badly after the first day, so I kept on truckin'. Unfortunately the swellling hasn't gone down yet, but now I actually have the opportunity to take care of it for I am in Ouaga, land of cheese and ice cream.
I'm in Ouaga for inter-service training until Saturday and then I'll return to Bouroum-Bouroum to start the new trimester on Monday. The training includes information on how to start a secondary project in our villages—English Club, sensibilizations, planting trees, Girls' Clubs, etc. For this second trimester I'll focus mainly on my classes, tutoring and starting an English Club since there is a very strong interest among the students at my school.
I miss Herman dearly and I'm anxious to get back to him. Hopefully he still remembers me after my two-week absence. Two weeks is a short amount of time, but it feels like ages since I've been in village.
Hope everyone had a great Christmas and New Year!
Content because as I'm writing this, I'm sitting on a cushy couch with a fan blowing in my face and a bowl of chocolate ice cream in my lap.
The Dogon Country in Mali was very beautiful, parts of it very much like New Mexico. Plateaus, villages located in the cliffs, and sand dunes like rolling hills. We slept on the roofs in remote villages under the moon (which was full on New Year's Eve) and stars. It was like we had a nightlight. And it was freezing! We hiked from 8-12 everyday, and then from 3-5 in the afternoon carrying our packs with us. We handed out kola nuts to the natives when we wanted to take pictures of their villages (and when one of us almost hit an elderly man with a soccer ball—he was not happy!). I tasted a kola nut—it was like eating a bitter piece of hard cardboard, quite tasty.
Children followed us around, asking us for pens and water bottles and for my earrings and watch. They seemed to think that if they kept asking I'll eventually hand over the goods. The people in this area are used to tourists, and are accustomed to receiving gifts from them. We as volunteers immediately noticed the differences between our villages in Burkina and the villages frequented by the European and the rare American traveler; in Dogon you can find trash cans and strategicially-placed souvenir shops. Though I do suppose Dogon is one of the most authentic African village experience for the tourist because you do get to see people going about their daily activities—women pounding millet and carrying things on their heads on their way to the marche, and men relaxing in the shade or praying at the mosque. But for me there was a touristy feel to the whole thing, which was in itself interesting to experience. Having been in Africa for 7 months, I guess the novelty of being in a small village has worn off; and after observing these European tourists, I was reminded of what it first felt like to arrive in country.
Early in the trip I jumped off a rock and twisted my ankle. It swelled but didn't hurt too badly after the first day, so I kept on truckin'. Unfortunately the swellling hasn't gone down yet, but now I actually have the opportunity to take care of it for I am in Ouaga, land of cheese and ice cream.
I'm in Ouaga for inter-service training until Saturday and then I'll return to Bouroum-Bouroum to start the new trimester on Monday. The training includes information on how to start a secondary project in our villages—English Club, sensibilizations, planting trees, Girls' Clubs, etc. For this second trimester I'll focus mainly on my classes, tutoring and starting an English Club since there is a very strong interest among the students at my school.
I miss Herman dearly and I'm anxious to get back to him. Hopefully he still remembers me after my two-week absence. Two weeks is a short amount of time, but it feels like ages since I've been in village.
Hope everyone had a great Christmas and New Year!
Wednesday, December 23, 2009
Happy Christmas!
Howdy ya'll!
The trimester is over! I've finished grading and calculating averages and arguing with students over undeserved points, and now I'm sort of on vacation.
My plans have changed. Elephants and Ghana will have to wait. Mali, here I come! I'll be hiking the whole time, which is odd considering how much I love the sedentary lifestyle (i.e. sitting on a beach in Ghana). But I'm very excited to see Dogon Country for I've been told it's a must-see. I'm including a description of what my trip will be like, courtesy of PC Burkina's almost-former director. See below yo!
I will be spending Christmas in Bouroum-Bouroum with Herman. Pancakes and chicken may be in my future! And tomorrow I'm going to a baptism. The women and men celebrate the baptism separately, so I'll be hanging out with the women and eating spaghetti. It's customary to bring soap to a baptism to give to the mother, but I think I might also go hunting for some baby clothes in the marché here in Gaoua.
Herman says hello. He killed a mouse outside the other day and then brought it inside my house to eat it. A bit backwards, no? The smell was horrible, but Herman didn't seem to mind.
Merry Christmas!
DOGON COUNTRY? MALI
Introduction. Mali’s Dogon Country is rightfully considered one of the most interesting places on this great earth, offering world class trekking where culture and nature intersect in a powerful way. The heart of Dogon Country is the Bandiagara Escarpment, a 150 kilometer (100 mile) long sandstone cliff with numerous villages along its top and bottom, and ancient Tellem houses perched on tiny ledges along its up-to-150 meters (500 feet) high face. The area offers the possibility of treks from a single day to several weeks, although 3-5 day trips are perhaps the most common.
Encounters with the Dogon people make a trek along the escarpment unique and memorable. People working their fields, women pounding millet, children playing in villages, old men gathered in the low-roofed meeting places, women barefoot or in flip flops with large pots on their heads negotiating ladders and narrow ledges, lively and colorful markets, etc. -- these are everyday sights along the Dogon trails.
Given Dogon’s reputation, it is no surprise that much has been written for the tourist and visitor. There is, however, surprisingly little detailed information for the serious hiker for whom the region offers magnificent trails and scenery -- whether on the top or on the bottom of the impressive escarpment, and, even more so, when going up and down between the two. The ascent trails often include ladders carved from logs, airy ledges, rock clefts, spectacular rock formations, and even caves!
It should be noted that “peak bagging” is not part of the Dogon experience -- this is not a mountain range and there are no summits of particular interest. The highest peaks in Mali are near Hombori, further to the east.
This guide is written for people who want to know more about trails, geography, distances between villages, and interesting hikes and destinations. It is not my intention to write about Dogon culture as there are many other sources available. As a hiker in Dogon Country, it is important to be flexible, allowing time to take in cultural events and sites along the trails; hikers who focus exclusively on accumulating kilometers, or sticking to a fixed itinerary, will miss out on much of what Dogon Country has to offer.
Geography. The Bandiagara Escarpment is in central Mali, just north of Burkina Faso. The escarpment faces southeast and, starting west of Bankass, runs northeast 150 km to Douentza. The terrain below the escarpment is a sandy plain with significant sand dunes in many areas. The top is mostly bedrock, a barren moonscape in places, cut by gorges that extend from cliff fissures far back into the plateau. In these gorges, there are rushing streams in the rainy season, as well as active gardens in the drier months.
Climate and Weather. Mali is hot, and hikers need to plan ahead and adapt accordingly. December to January is the coolest time, but tourists are abundant and the Harmattan dust blowing down from the Sahara can be a problem at times (peaking in the somewhat hotter month of February). March to mid-June is extremely hot, and this period is perhaps best avoided altogether, although the lack of tourists creates a temptation.
The rainy season is from late May through mid-September. It is mostly hot and dry with occasional downpours; there are also occasional periods of fog and mist. The rains diminish the heat, but be prepared for the possibility of muddy trails, slippery rock ledges, flooded roads, and many summer time tourists. Stream and river crossings may be challenging with options including wading, piggybacking on your guide’s back, or perhaps catching a lift on a passing donkey.
End of August into September has fewer tourists and is spectacularly green -- with crops in full bloom -- making this a favorite time for the author. October-November (harvest time) is hotter and drier, but not as hot as March to mid-June.
6 AM -10 AM and 3 or 4 PM to dark (which varies from 6:00 PM at the winter solstice in December to 7 PM at the summer solstice in June) are the best times to be out on the trails. Plan to spend mid-day (approx. 11 AM to 3 PM) holed up in a campement having lunch and waiting for the weather to cool down. Bring a book and/or journal and take a nap on a mattress (which will be supplied upon request) if the heat does not keep you awake.
It is recommended that you break camp at the very first sign of morning light to maximize hiking time in the cool weather. Tell your guide that hot water will do for breakfast tea or coffee and carry your own bread/jam or snacks so you don’t have to wait for a cooked breakfast. If you start hiking at 7:30 AM, you have already missed out on one of the best hours of the day!
Hiking right up to dark is recommended for those who want to cover terrain; the two hours before dark offer glorious light and reasonable temperatures. Don’t miss being out during these magic hours! Those two hours each day offer the true glory of hiking in Dogon Country, typically supplanting the best memories from the other twenty-two.
Also, if possible, plan your hike to correspond with the full moon.
Waterfalls. During rainy season, there are many attractive cascades, such as those in Ende and Tigou. Teli, Ourou, and Banani host spectacular waterfalls, each descending the full height to the escarpment.
Rock Climbing, Bouldering, Canyons, Hang gliding. The rock climbing potential is enormous, but little has been done. Records of climbs are sketchy at best. The Ende pinnacle is one feature that has reportedly been climbed. Climbers on hiking trips are encouraged to bring their climbing shoes for bouldering near the campements and at rest stops along the trail. The quality of the rock is generally excellent. Slot canyons will also occasionally be encountered, and they offer some adventurous, if short, side trips. Hang gliding is another possible activity, but you will need to bring all your own equipment.
Villages and Markets. There are numerous villages on both the top and bottom of the escarpment. The cliff bottom villages are generally more scenic (with the cliff face in the background!) and well known from a tourist point of view, but some on top, such as Begnimatou, are equally spectacular. Some of the villages are quite spread out, as much as a kilometer in length (for example, Ende), and many comprise multiple sub-villages.
Village names can be confusing, due to both multiple spellings of the same name (as described previously) and also because one village name may have multiple variations for various nearby sub-villages (for example, Idjeli-na and Idjeli-do). For the most part, one name only for each village is used in this guide. Usually, cliff top villages have different names than those below but there are some exceptions such as Idjeli, Kundou, and Yougo. The suffix –na identifies the cliff bottom village.
Most villages have markets every five or seven days1 and visiting them can be a memorable experience. They typically start in the afternoon and continue into the night. A central activity, especially in the evening/night, is drinking the local millet-based alcohol beverage, brewed and sold by women who actively offer samples in calabashes to convince you that theirs is the best quality to buy. Ask your guide to help plan you itinerary so you can stay at least one night in a village on market day.
Campements. Most villages have at least one campement. Some are fairly primitive while others are slightly more “upscale” -- meaning that they are cleaner, have an overhead tank in the shower stall (as opposed to just a bucket), and might have a porcelain toilet over a cement latrine hole and flowering plants growing in the courtyard. Except in Sanga, no campements have electricity, running water, fans or air conditioning. Be sure to bring your own supply of toilet paper, soap, and shampoo!
All campements have foam mattresses, but it is recommended that you bring your own mosquito net and cord to tie it up with (the square type with four tie-in points is recommended over the “tepee-style” with a single tie point).
Most of the year, you will want to sleep on the roof, accessed by stairs or a Dogon-style ladder, as the rooms are uncomfortably hot, even at night. Be prepared during the rainy season for the possibility of late night storms which result in rapid descent to a room! Rooftop poles or posts are usually available to tie up your mosquito net. Most campements have blankets (although they are not usually needed), but is recommended that you bring your own sheet. During the cold months of December and January, you will want to bring a sleeping bag or at least an extra blanket.
You can wash your clothes in a bucket (or someone at the campement will do them for you for perhaps 500 cfa). Except perhaps in the rainy season, they will dry very quickly (even at night if there is the slightest breeze).
Meals. Campements make meals at the instruction of the guide. Offerings are typically limited: couscous or pasta with sauce and a few vegetables and some chicken or goat meat is common. Your guide may bring some canned vegetables to liven up the meals. Some fresh produce, such as tomatoes, may be available from local gardens during the dry season or, to a limited extent, in the rainy season. Fresh fruit is uncommon at most times of the year.
Breakfast is hot water with tea or instant coffee and bread or local donuts. Your guide may bring jam or peanut butter.
Campements will provide water from a nearby village pump or well. Treatment of some kind is recommended. If you choose not to treat the water, it is recommended that you get it directly from a pump to avoid possible contamination from campement water containers.
Most campements have gas-powered refrigerators with cold (or at least semi-cold) bottled water, soft drinks, and beer. Meals, lodging, and the village tourist tax, are typically included in your “package deal” guide fee, but you will need to pay for drinks (other than pump water), so plan accordingly.
Most campements have Dogon souvenirs for sale, especially wood carvings.
Hazards. Heat is the greatest hazard. It saps your energy in ways you might not realize at first. Be sure to maximize hydration before you even start and drink lots of water throughout the day. Carrying a minimum of two liters per person is recommended. Blisters can also result from the intense heat; carry band-aids and moleskin.
Intense sun is another major concern. Sun hats and liberal use of sunscreen are essential. Get early starts and take occasional breaks under shade trees. As discussed previously, rains can create slippery ledges and challenging stream cautions
Malaria prophylaxis is recommended year round, especially during the rainy season. Long pants and sleeves and/or insect repellent are recommended during evening meals. Flies can be a nuisance at times during the rainy season, especially when food is present.
As is the case in much of Africa, bilharzia (schistosomiasis), an illness that originates in snails, is present in water, especially standing water, and swimming is thus not recommended.
Poisonous snakes are present but rarely seen. Keep your eyes on the ground where you are stepping, though. The Dogon say that seeing a snake when you are out hiking brings good luck! Lizards will be regularly encountered, but I have never seen a scorpion (although they are reportedly out there).
There are several nasty plants that the locals refer to collectively as the “Dogon police.” One mimosa shrub/tree has hooked thorns that stick to you like Velcro on steroids, but it is rarely a problem if you stick to the trails. In sandy soils, especially along the bottom, be on the lookout during the rainy season for a foxtail-like grass with both light green and dark purple clusters of innocent looking, but very nasty, little spiny seeds that stick to any passing clothing and are difficult to remove.
Another plant hazard during the rainy season are weeds that grow profusely along the trails up and down the cliffs. Use care to avoid “sandwiching” plant material between your boots and the rocks which can make your step surprisingly slippery.
Speaking of rocks, the sandstone generally has a high friction value, but be aware that some of the lighter colored rock can be polished and more slippery. Of course, when wet, any rock can be slippery so care is advised.
Encounters with the Dogon and Fulani People
Encounters with local inhabitants will occur, and some people, especially children, are quite curious. Dogon is the dominant ethnic group, while some Fulani cattle herders may also be encountered. In general, I have found the villagers to be respectful, friendly and helpful (although you cannot count on them to speak French). Be especially differential to elders. Your guide will suggest proper etiquette.
Speaking Dogon. As in all places, people appreciate efforts to learn the local language. Greet people you meet along the trail with “Po” and “Say-o.” The usual greeting sequence is a fairly long back and forth goes as one person inquires about the other and then the sequence reverses. It goes something like this:
Person 1 Person 2
Po (hello) Sayo (like ca va in French, this works as both a question and a response)
Oumana sayo? (How’s the family?) Sayo
Gay sayo? (How is your heath?) Sayo (sometimes shortened to Say as sequence goes on)
Ho sayo (How are you yourself?) Sayo. Oumana sayo?
Sayo Gay sayo?
Sayo Ho sayo?
Ya po Ya po
Here are a few other useful phrases:
Emma yay Good bye
Digga digga Slowly
Amma u obara God bless you
Edjiko Good
Go Go
Vay Come
Ganna Thank you
Eeen oua I want
Garra yemma Let’s go
Your guide can teach you more greetings and phrases.
Visiting Tellem Houses. Ancient Tellem houses are ubiquitous but most are high on cliff faces and thus inaccessible. Accessible ones can be visited in Teli, Ende, Kani-Kombole, and Nombori. For central and northern areas, including the fine Tellem houses in Ireli and Yougopri, access is forbidden.
The trimester is over! I've finished grading and calculating averages and arguing with students over undeserved points, and now I'm sort of on vacation.
My plans have changed. Elephants and Ghana will have to wait. Mali, here I come! I'll be hiking the whole time, which is odd considering how much I love the sedentary lifestyle (i.e. sitting on a beach in Ghana). But I'm very excited to see Dogon Country for I've been told it's a must-see. I'm including a description of what my trip will be like, courtesy of PC Burkina's almost-former director. See below yo!
I will be spending Christmas in Bouroum-Bouroum with Herman. Pancakes and chicken may be in my future! And tomorrow I'm going to a baptism. The women and men celebrate the baptism separately, so I'll be hanging out with the women and eating spaghetti. It's customary to bring soap to a baptism to give to the mother, but I think I might also go hunting for some baby clothes in the marché here in Gaoua.
Herman says hello. He killed a mouse outside the other day and then brought it inside my house to eat it. A bit backwards, no? The smell was horrible, but Herman didn't seem to mind.
Merry Christmas!
DOGON COUNTRY? MALI
Introduction. Mali’s Dogon Country is rightfully considered one of the most interesting places on this great earth, offering world class trekking where culture and nature intersect in a powerful way. The heart of Dogon Country is the Bandiagara Escarpment, a 150 kilometer (100 mile) long sandstone cliff with numerous villages along its top and bottom, and ancient Tellem houses perched on tiny ledges along its up-to-150 meters (500 feet) high face. The area offers the possibility of treks from a single day to several weeks, although 3-5 day trips are perhaps the most common.
Encounters with the Dogon people make a trek along the escarpment unique and memorable. People working their fields, women pounding millet, children playing in villages, old men gathered in the low-roofed meeting places, women barefoot or in flip flops with large pots on their heads negotiating ladders and narrow ledges, lively and colorful markets, etc. -- these are everyday sights along the Dogon trails.
Given Dogon’s reputation, it is no surprise that much has been written for the tourist and visitor. There is, however, surprisingly little detailed information for the serious hiker for whom the region offers magnificent trails and scenery -- whether on the top or on the bottom of the impressive escarpment, and, even more so, when going up and down between the two. The ascent trails often include ladders carved from logs, airy ledges, rock clefts, spectacular rock formations, and even caves!
It should be noted that “peak bagging” is not part of the Dogon experience -- this is not a mountain range and there are no summits of particular interest. The highest peaks in Mali are near Hombori, further to the east.
This guide is written for people who want to know more about trails, geography, distances between villages, and interesting hikes and destinations. It is not my intention to write about Dogon culture as there are many other sources available. As a hiker in Dogon Country, it is important to be flexible, allowing time to take in cultural events and sites along the trails; hikers who focus exclusively on accumulating kilometers, or sticking to a fixed itinerary, will miss out on much of what Dogon Country has to offer.
Geography. The Bandiagara Escarpment is in central Mali, just north of Burkina Faso. The escarpment faces southeast and, starting west of Bankass, runs northeast 150 km to Douentza. The terrain below the escarpment is a sandy plain with significant sand dunes in many areas. The top is mostly bedrock, a barren moonscape in places, cut by gorges that extend from cliff fissures far back into the plateau. In these gorges, there are rushing streams in the rainy season, as well as active gardens in the drier months.
Climate and Weather. Mali is hot, and hikers need to plan ahead and adapt accordingly. December to January is the coolest time, but tourists are abundant and the Harmattan dust blowing down from the Sahara can be a problem at times (peaking in the somewhat hotter month of February). March to mid-June is extremely hot, and this period is perhaps best avoided altogether, although the lack of tourists creates a temptation.
The rainy season is from late May through mid-September. It is mostly hot and dry with occasional downpours; there are also occasional periods of fog and mist. The rains diminish the heat, but be prepared for the possibility of muddy trails, slippery rock ledges, flooded roads, and many summer time tourists. Stream and river crossings may be challenging with options including wading, piggybacking on your guide’s back, or perhaps catching a lift on a passing donkey.
End of August into September has fewer tourists and is spectacularly green -- with crops in full bloom -- making this a favorite time for the author. October-November (harvest time) is hotter and drier, but not as hot as March to mid-June.
6 AM -10 AM and 3 or 4 PM to dark (which varies from 6:00 PM at the winter solstice in December to 7 PM at the summer solstice in June) are the best times to be out on the trails. Plan to spend mid-day (approx. 11 AM to 3 PM) holed up in a campement having lunch and waiting for the weather to cool down. Bring a book and/or journal and take a nap on a mattress (which will be supplied upon request) if the heat does not keep you awake.
It is recommended that you break camp at the very first sign of morning light to maximize hiking time in the cool weather. Tell your guide that hot water will do for breakfast tea or coffee and carry your own bread/jam or snacks so you don’t have to wait for a cooked breakfast. If you start hiking at 7:30 AM, you have already missed out on one of the best hours of the day!
Hiking right up to dark is recommended for those who want to cover terrain; the two hours before dark offer glorious light and reasonable temperatures. Don’t miss being out during these magic hours! Those two hours each day offer the true glory of hiking in Dogon Country, typically supplanting the best memories from the other twenty-two.
Also, if possible, plan your hike to correspond with the full moon.
Waterfalls. During rainy season, there are many attractive cascades, such as those in Ende and Tigou. Teli, Ourou, and Banani host spectacular waterfalls, each descending the full height to the escarpment.
Rock Climbing, Bouldering, Canyons, Hang gliding. The rock climbing potential is enormous, but little has been done. Records of climbs are sketchy at best. The Ende pinnacle is one feature that has reportedly been climbed. Climbers on hiking trips are encouraged to bring their climbing shoes for bouldering near the campements and at rest stops along the trail. The quality of the rock is generally excellent. Slot canyons will also occasionally be encountered, and they offer some adventurous, if short, side trips. Hang gliding is another possible activity, but you will need to bring all your own equipment.
Villages and Markets. There are numerous villages on both the top and bottom of the escarpment. The cliff bottom villages are generally more scenic (with the cliff face in the background!) and well known from a tourist point of view, but some on top, such as Begnimatou, are equally spectacular. Some of the villages are quite spread out, as much as a kilometer in length (for example, Ende), and many comprise multiple sub-villages.
Village names can be confusing, due to both multiple spellings of the same name (as described previously) and also because one village name may have multiple variations for various nearby sub-villages (for example, Idjeli-na and Idjeli-do). For the most part, one name only for each village is used in this guide. Usually, cliff top villages have different names than those below but there are some exceptions such as Idjeli, Kundou, and Yougo. The suffix –na identifies the cliff bottom village.
Most villages have markets every five or seven days1 and visiting them can be a memorable experience. They typically start in the afternoon and continue into the night. A central activity, especially in the evening/night, is drinking the local millet-based alcohol beverage, brewed and sold by women who actively offer samples in calabashes to convince you that theirs is the best quality to buy. Ask your guide to help plan you itinerary so you can stay at least one night in a village on market day.
Campements. Most villages have at least one campement. Some are fairly primitive while others are slightly more “upscale” -- meaning that they are cleaner, have an overhead tank in the shower stall (as opposed to just a bucket), and might have a porcelain toilet over a cement latrine hole and flowering plants growing in the courtyard. Except in Sanga, no campements have electricity, running water, fans or air conditioning. Be sure to bring your own supply of toilet paper, soap, and shampoo!
All campements have foam mattresses, but it is recommended that you bring your own mosquito net and cord to tie it up with (the square type with four tie-in points is recommended over the “tepee-style” with a single tie point).
Most of the year, you will want to sleep on the roof, accessed by stairs or a Dogon-style ladder, as the rooms are uncomfortably hot, even at night. Be prepared during the rainy season for the possibility of late night storms which result in rapid descent to a room! Rooftop poles or posts are usually available to tie up your mosquito net. Most campements have blankets (although they are not usually needed), but is recommended that you bring your own sheet. During the cold months of December and January, you will want to bring a sleeping bag or at least an extra blanket.
You can wash your clothes in a bucket (or someone at the campement will do them for you for perhaps 500 cfa). Except perhaps in the rainy season, they will dry very quickly (even at night if there is the slightest breeze).
Meals. Campements make meals at the instruction of the guide. Offerings are typically limited: couscous or pasta with sauce and a few vegetables and some chicken or goat meat is common. Your guide may bring some canned vegetables to liven up the meals. Some fresh produce, such as tomatoes, may be available from local gardens during the dry season or, to a limited extent, in the rainy season. Fresh fruit is uncommon at most times of the year.
Breakfast is hot water with tea or instant coffee and bread or local donuts. Your guide may bring jam or peanut butter.
Campements will provide water from a nearby village pump or well. Treatment of some kind is recommended. If you choose not to treat the water, it is recommended that you get it directly from a pump to avoid possible contamination from campement water containers.
Most campements have gas-powered refrigerators with cold (or at least semi-cold) bottled water, soft drinks, and beer. Meals, lodging, and the village tourist tax, are typically included in your “package deal” guide fee, but you will need to pay for drinks (other than pump water), so plan accordingly.
Most campements have Dogon souvenirs for sale, especially wood carvings.
Hazards. Heat is the greatest hazard. It saps your energy in ways you might not realize at first. Be sure to maximize hydration before you even start and drink lots of water throughout the day. Carrying a minimum of two liters per person is recommended. Blisters can also result from the intense heat; carry band-aids and moleskin.
Intense sun is another major concern. Sun hats and liberal use of sunscreen are essential. Get early starts and take occasional breaks under shade trees. As discussed previously, rains can create slippery ledges and challenging stream cautions
Malaria prophylaxis is recommended year round, especially during the rainy season. Long pants and sleeves and/or insect repellent are recommended during evening meals. Flies can be a nuisance at times during the rainy season, especially when food is present.
As is the case in much of Africa, bilharzia (schistosomiasis), an illness that originates in snails, is present in water, especially standing water, and swimming is thus not recommended.
Poisonous snakes are present but rarely seen. Keep your eyes on the ground where you are stepping, though. The Dogon say that seeing a snake when you are out hiking brings good luck! Lizards will be regularly encountered, but I have never seen a scorpion (although they are reportedly out there).
There are several nasty plants that the locals refer to collectively as the “Dogon police.” One mimosa shrub/tree has hooked thorns that stick to you like Velcro on steroids, but it is rarely a problem if you stick to the trails. In sandy soils, especially along the bottom, be on the lookout during the rainy season for a foxtail-like grass with both light green and dark purple clusters of innocent looking, but very nasty, little spiny seeds that stick to any passing clothing and are difficult to remove.
Another plant hazard during the rainy season are weeds that grow profusely along the trails up and down the cliffs. Use care to avoid “sandwiching” plant material between your boots and the rocks which can make your step surprisingly slippery.
Speaking of rocks, the sandstone generally has a high friction value, but be aware that some of the lighter colored rock can be polished and more slippery. Of course, when wet, any rock can be slippery so care is advised.
Encounters with the Dogon and Fulani People
Encounters with local inhabitants will occur, and some people, especially children, are quite curious. Dogon is the dominant ethnic group, while some Fulani cattle herders may also be encountered. In general, I have found the villagers to be respectful, friendly and helpful (although you cannot count on them to speak French). Be especially differential to elders. Your guide will suggest proper etiquette.
Speaking Dogon. As in all places, people appreciate efforts to learn the local language. Greet people you meet along the trail with “Po” and “Say-o.” The usual greeting sequence is a fairly long back and forth goes as one person inquires about the other and then the sequence reverses. It goes something like this:
Person 1 Person 2
Po (hello) Sayo (like ca va in French, this works as both a question and a response)
Oumana sayo? (How’s the family?) Sayo
Gay sayo? (How is your heath?) Sayo (sometimes shortened to Say as sequence goes on)
Ho sayo (How are you yourself?) Sayo. Oumana sayo?
Sayo Gay sayo?
Sayo Ho sayo?
Ya po Ya po
Here are a few other useful phrases:
Emma yay Good bye
Digga digga Slowly
Amma u obara God bless you
Edjiko Good
Go Go
Vay Come
Ganna Thank you
Eeen oua I want
Garra yemma Let’s go
Your guide can teach you more greetings and phrases.
Visiting Tellem Houses. Ancient Tellem houses are ubiquitous but most are high on cliff faces and thus inaccessible. Accessible ones can be visited in Teli, Ende, Kani-Kombole, and Nombori. For central and northern areas, including the fine Tellem houses in Ireli and Yougopri, access is forbidden.
Saturday, December 12, 2009
It came upon a midnight clear (pictures from the AIDS sensibilization)
I have to admit that I'm having a hard time keeping up with blog entries. With several weeks in between entries I'm bound to forget huge chunks of what I've done. And of course there's also the fact that when I get to use the internet all I want to do is surf aimlessly. But now I am here and write I will!
Most recently I attended a sensibilization on female genital mutilation, or excision, at the CEG where I teach. Practically the entire school attended. I've never been so horrified and disgusted in all my life. We watched a video where we witnessed several girls being excised. Their screams were haunting (dull razors or blades were used and no anesthetic) and I had nightmares that night. I think I have a strong stomach, but I had to work incredibly hard to keep my food down while watching this video. But at least most of the students paid attention and took it seriously; many jumped at the opportunity to answer questions asked of them and, in turn, asked their own questions.
On Thanksgiving, Jillian and I collaborated with my counterpart and the director of my school to put on a sensibilization about HIV/AIDS. I find the pictures (above) quite amusing. Jillian and I were in charge of doing condom demonstrations for the whole school; it was a lot of fun, especially when we called students to the front to demonstrate what they learned.
There was nothing Thanksgiving-ish about the actual Thanksgiving day, but last weekend I celebrated the holiday with other Americans in Bobo-Dioulasso. I ate turkey, green bean casserole, macaroni (almost exactly like Grandma's!), potatoes, apple pie and carrot cake. Holy Amazingness it was delcious! And I got to visit with friends I hadn't seen since August, so it was all quite lovely.
I have tentative plans for Chrismas and New Year's. Tentative because I somehow have to go to Ouaga very soon to get my visa, but I'm stuck in Bouroum-Bouroum at least until the 22nd grading exams and calculating averages. I think I'll be able to work it out, but here are the plans: Christmas in Po searching for elephants or animals besides donkeys and goats. New Year's in Ghana on a beach with an ice cold coke between my peeling hands (my hands haven't gotten better, but I called the PCMO and he's sure it's just dry skin; hydrating lotion is en route from ouaga as we I write!). Then I have to be back in Ouaga on January 5th for Inter-Service Training. Whew! That's a loaded two weeks, but it sounds like oodles of fun.
Speaking of fun, I bought the first Harry Potter book in French and have started reading it. It's taking me forever, but I figure it's a good way to expand my French vocabulary. And it's Harry Potter; what's not to like?
Okay I'm tired of writing for now. Until next time. And if that next time happens to be after the 25th, a very jolly Merry Christmas to everyone!
Saturday, November 21, 2009
Happy Birthday, Silly Matt!
Wow, Matt, now you’re even more than halfway to 50. Keep on truckin’! And have some cake! Lately I’ve been craving the box confetti cake with chocolate frosting. But alas, instead I satisfy my hunger with delicious rice and sauce with bits of cabbage. A happy alternative to cake. Anyway, Matty, I hope your bday is splendiferous. Today is also my sitemate, Jillian’s, birthday, so Happy Birthday, Jillian!
I haven’t been able to leave Bouroum Bouroum for 3 weeks, and I wasn’t certain I’d make it out this weekend because of a potential Saturday site visit from a PC official. But JZ, you’re my hero because you came yesterday instead. So now I’m in Gaoua (biked again!).
I’ll try to sum up the last 3 weeks :
I gave exams to all of my classes and it took me about a week to grade them all. For each class, about half the students achieved the moyenne (50%), which is considered ‘normal’ but which I find a little disheartening. After I returned exams I encouraged all students to come to me for tutoring if they don’t understand all the material I‘ve covered in class. I also told them that there will be one more exam before this trimester ends, so those who aren’t satisfied with their grades will have another opportunity to improve their overall score. My goodness, there are some students who just can’t accept the grade they earned. These students approach me and try to argue for more points; after I’ve explained why I’ve subtracted points and they’re still not satisfied, I tell them I’m going to take off another point if they don’t stop bugging me about it. That tactic works pretty well.
Last weekend was the school’s 'nettoyage,’ or cleaning. Boys bring their machetes and girls bring their brooms, and all the students clean the school inside out while the teachers oversee the work. We’re trying to cut down on potential snake problems. But I observed more of the gender role distinctions that are so prevalent here. Girls must sweep, but when I recommended (jokingly) to one of the many male teachers that I could go home and bring back my broom for him to use, he laughed heartily and immediately dismissed the idea. Boys don’t sweep. Women must do the cooking. I don’t know how many times I’ve told Burkinabè men that I don’t like to cook, and every time their response is ‘Il faut apprendre’ (You must learn) because I’ll have to cook for my husband. I’ve yet to breach the subject of my not wanting to marry any time soon (or never, as I actually believe will be the case), and instead I retort that he’ll just have to cook for me. Oh the laughs I get then! Apparently I’m a funny person even when I’m not aware that I am (okay, I do realize that sometimes I’m a bit ridiculous, but that’s beside the point). The notion of boys sweeping or pumping water is completely foreign to many Burkinabè. I’m thinking about experimenting with this a little in my classes, test the gender roles mayhaps, and select a boy to balayer the classroom.
Herman the Cat is doing well and he loves me! But you should’ve seen him the first week I had him. He absolutely loathed me. Hissed at me everytime he saw me, wouldn’t let me come within 2 feet of him, and then of course the constant howling ALL NIGHT LONG. He wasn’t meowing ; it sounded like he was being murdered, a slow horrible death. I didn’t get any sleep 3 nights in a row and I was about to toss him out on his hiney (not really, but I thought about it a lot, especially when I was wide awake at 3 am). But then something amazing happened last Saturday : Herman fell in love with my feet. He approached them slowly, sniffed at them (and didn’t keel over!), and commenced rubbing his head against them and purring! And he’s loved me ever since. He’s about two months old, black and white (like Licky!), and he loves eating fish. Naturally. Not sure if Herman is a boy or a girl, but I’m leaning towards boy. But that didn’t stop me from putting a collar on him that says ‘Girl Power!’ He’s killed a cockroach (accidentally, rolled over it while playing with it) and likes to play with the little froggies I occassionally find in my casa. And he’s such a lover, always purring and kneading and sitting in my lap, and digging his claws into my legs and hanging from them when I’m standing up and he wants attention. Precious moments, complete with blotchy red marks.
For the 26th, Jillian, my homologue and I are putting on a sensibilization at the school for World AIDS Awareness Day, which I believe actually falls on December 2 but the 26th is the day for the Ministry of Health. We’re going to give the students red paper ribbons to wear (Jillian and I are making 700!) and we’re going to dish out all the scary facts about AIDS and most importantly, modes of transmission and steps for prevention. I’m looking forward to it.
I’ve also been attending the schools’ soccer games which started about two weeks ago. There are at least two classes for each level (6e, 5e, 4e, 3e), and so the matches are intraclass level. They’re exciting and almost all the teachers and students attend, but no girls are on any of the teams. If I’m not able to start a girls’ team my first year, then I’ll try my darndest to kick one off the following year. I miss soccer.
Speaking of soccer, World Cup next summer! I’m going to glue myself to a TV somewhere in Burkina for the entire month of June. Hopefully I’ll be able to manage that because I don’t want to miss it!
I’m going to Bobo in two weeks to celebrate Thanksgiving with some other volunteers. I hope everyone has a wonderfully delicious Thanksgiving next week!
And now it's time to bring out the Christmas music. Come they told me, ba rum ba bum bum.
I haven’t been able to leave Bouroum Bouroum for 3 weeks, and I wasn’t certain I’d make it out this weekend because of a potential Saturday site visit from a PC official. But JZ, you’re my hero because you came yesterday instead. So now I’m in Gaoua (biked again!).
I’ll try to sum up the last 3 weeks :
I gave exams to all of my classes and it took me about a week to grade them all. For each class, about half the students achieved the moyenne (50%), which is considered ‘normal’ but which I find a little disheartening. After I returned exams I encouraged all students to come to me for tutoring if they don’t understand all the material I‘ve covered in class. I also told them that there will be one more exam before this trimester ends, so those who aren’t satisfied with their grades will have another opportunity to improve their overall score. My goodness, there are some students who just can’t accept the grade they earned. These students approach me and try to argue for more points; after I’ve explained why I’ve subtracted points and they’re still not satisfied, I tell them I’m going to take off another point if they don’t stop bugging me about it. That tactic works pretty well.
Last weekend was the school’s 'nettoyage,’ or cleaning. Boys bring their machetes and girls bring their brooms, and all the students clean the school inside out while the teachers oversee the work. We’re trying to cut down on potential snake problems. But I observed more of the gender role distinctions that are so prevalent here. Girls must sweep, but when I recommended (jokingly) to one of the many male teachers that I could go home and bring back my broom for him to use, he laughed heartily and immediately dismissed the idea. Boys don’t sweep. Women must do the cooking. I don’t know how many times I’ve told Burkinabè men that I don’t like to cook, and every time their response is ‘Il faut apprendre’ (You must learn) because I’ll have to cook for my husband. I’ve yet to breach the subject of my not wanting to marry any time soon (or never, as I actually believe will be the case), and instead I retort that he’ll just have to cook for me. Oh the laughs I get then! Apparently I’m a funny person even when I’m not aware that I am (okay, I do realize that sometimes I’m a bit ridiculous, but that’s beside the point). The notion of boys sweeping or pumping water is completely foreign to many Burkinabè. I’m thinking about experimenting with this a little in my classes, test the gender roles mayhaps, and select a boy to balayer the classroom.
Herman the Cat is doing well and he loves me! But you should’ve seen him the first week I had him. He absolutely loathed me. Hissed at me everytime he saw me, wouldn’t let me come within 2 feet of him, and then of course the constant howling ALL NIGHT LONG. He wasn’t meowing ; it sounded like he was being murdered, a slow horrible death. I didn’t get any sleep 3 nights in a row and I was about to toss him out on his hiney (not really, but I thought about it a lot, especially when I was wide awake at 3 am). But then something amazing happened last Saturday : Herman fell in love with my feet. He approached them slowly, sniffed at them (and didn’t keel over!), and commenced rubbing his head against them and purring! And he’s loved me ever since. He’s about two months old, black and white (like Licky!), and he loves eating fish. Naturally. Not sure if Herman is a boy or a girl, but I’m leaning towards boy. But that didn’t stop me from putting a collar on him that says ‘Girl Power!’ He’s killed a cockroach (accidentally, rolled over it while playing with it) and likes to play with the little froggies I occassionally find in my casa. And he’s such a lover, always purring and kneading and sitting in my lap, and digging his claws into my legs and hanging from them when I’m standing up and he wants attention. Precious moments, complete with blotchy red marks.
For the 26th, Jillian, my homologue and I are putting on a sensibilization at the school for World AIDS Awareness Day, which I believe actually falls on December 2 but the 26th is the day for the Ministry of Health. We’re going to give the students red paper ribbons to wear (Jillian and I are making 700!) and we’re going to dish out all the scary facts about AIDS and most importantly, modes of transmission and steps for prevention. I’m looking forward to it.
I’ve also been attending the schools’ soccer games which started about two weeks ago. There are at least two classes for each level (6e, 5e, 4e, 3e), and so the matches are intraclass level. They’re exciting and almost all the teachers and students attend, but no girls are on any of the teams. If I’m not able to start a girls’ team my first year, then I’ll try my darndest to kick one off the following year. I miss soccer.
Speaking of soccer, World Cup next summer! I’m going to glue myself to a TV somewhere in Burkina for the entire month of June. Hopefully I’ll be able to manage that because I don’t want to miss it!
I’m going to Bobo in two weeks to celebrate Thanksgiving with some other volunteers. I hope everyone has a wonderfully delicious Thanksgiving next week!
And now it's time to bring out the Christmas music. Come they told me, ba rum ba bum bum.
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